Caleb Westphal hasn’t missed a Friday fish fry since 2013. Follow his never-ending adventures—sponsored by Miller High Life—HERE. This week, fish fry #554: Tailgaters Bar & Grill in Caledonia, Wisconsin.
“You Missed the Best Fish Fry,” the subject line of the email roared at me. Really, the best fish fry? “You have to try the fish fry in Caledonia that beats all the others on your list,” the email began. All the others on my list? The writer then gave a shout-out to the walleye, catfish, potato pancakes, and great service at Tailgaters Bar & Grill (7641 WI-38, Caledonia; 262-732-4259). Consequently, I added the restaurant to my 46-page Google Doc of places that I may or may not get to for a fish fry before I die. This was back in January. After sitting on this information for over a half year, I decided it was time to go to Caledonia, Wisconsin, for the best fish fry.
The parking lot outside of the large building was nearly full when my wife, three stepsons, and I arrived not long after 5 p.m. Noticing we had a full crew of kids, a server who saw us enter asked if we wanted to bypass going to the host stand to get a table in back, and if we wanted the large table up front—one of only three tables in that area and the only large one—between the two pool tables and the dart boards and car racing games lining the building’s south wall. While I had some aspirations to see the back dining area, it quickly was apparent that staying up front— where the boys (and I) could play some pool—was a good choice.
We put in orders for drinks: water, a root beer, a Kiddie Cocktail, and a Brandy Old Fashioned Sweet. On Fridays, Tailgaters— which opened in 2019 and previously had been home to restaurants like the Bavarian Hofbrau Haus, a German restaurant that had all-you-can-eat fish and that hosted Lou Prohut and Frankie Yankovic, fish fry mainstay JD’s Fieldhouse, and the Shamrock Pub & Grill—offers fried cod ($14.50), baked cod (available after 4 p.m.) ($16.50), fried catfish ($14.50), fried lake perch ($15.50), fried walleye ($16.50), fried bluegill ($17), and fried shrimp ($15). Along with rye bread and coleslaw, the dinners come with a choice of seasoned fries, chips, potato pancakes, or mashed potatoes. For an extra buck a baked potato can be ordered, as long as it’s after 4. Two dollars are taken off any fish fry between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. We put in our food orders. While bluegill and perch were on my mind, I couldn’t pass over the walleye, since it was suggested to me in the email, and I ordered it with potato pancakes, of course.
The drinks arrived and I joined the boys, who were already at the pool tables. Two of them played each other, and I played the other. The Old Fashioned ($6.50) was muddled, and sweet, in a Southern Comfort kind of way, to the point that I began wondering if it actually was poured with Southern Comfort. It wasn’t, but each time I returned to it between shots at the cue ball, that’s what I found, and I liked it.
An almost ever-present line formed by the host stand as we played. At first it was just a line for people to get to the host before immediately being seated, but as the restaurant filled up even more, it became a line where people put their name in to be seated later.
We finished our games, sat down, and the food arrived almost immediately. There were two half slices of rye bread that were soft and thick, and of the upper crust of rye breads. Slivers of red cabbage and carrot broke up the green cabbage in the slaw. With a noticeable crunch, it was juicy, but not overly juicy, and seasoned, but not overly seasoned, and was good but not seismically earth shaking. With a tinge of buttery sweetness, some onion and seasoning, and crisp edges with a softer center and interior, the potato pancakes were graceful, right in the middle of it all, with nothing jarring and everything inviting.
Whoa boy, this was some high-quality walleye. There was just one piece, but it was fat, flaky, and supple, not chewy. Its breading had slathers of seasoning which gave way to a robust, savory flavor. It was crispy, but not overly crunchy, and like the pancakes, it had a graceful balance to it. I was a bit underwhelmed by the tartar. It was thin (maybe from lemon juice?), with bitty relish chunks and other green seasoning. It was okay when paired with the fish, but the fish was great on its own, and almost better without it.
The package of walleye and pancakes was a fine combo, indeed. Was it the best fish fry and did it beat all the others I’ve had? I mean, come on, every place is considered the best by someone. But I dug this one, I’d dig it again, and I think you would dig it, too.
As the server cleared our plates (thanks to Kelsey for the excellent service!), I played another game of pool. I found myself eating a half piece of rye that one of my stepsons didn’t want, and it brought to mind last week’s lack of rye bread and thoughts of redemption and everything working out in the end. Sometimes you scratch. Sometimes you hit what you want in the pocket. But you don’t have a chance unless you shoot. It felt great to be alive and have another Friday to enjoy.
Takeaways: Family friendly (at least if you sit at this one table and give your kids pool cues); great service; redemptive rye bread; graceful potato pancakes; fat and flaky walleye with savory breading.
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