Caleb Westphal hasn’t missed a Friday fish fry since 2013. Follow his never-ending adventures—sponsored by Miller High Life—HERE. This week: fish fry #614, at White Rabbit Bar & Grill in Mequon, Wisconsin.
And if you go chasing rabbits, and you know you’re going to fall
Tell ’em a hookah-smoking caterpillar has given you the call
“White Rabbit” by Jefferson Airplane
What could have been a white rabbit with a pocket watch ahead turned out to be a sign for White Rabbit Bar & Grill (14015 N. Cedarburg Rd., Mequon; 262-421-8101). I was riding the Ozaukee Interurban Trail from Mequon to Cedarburg that day a few summers back, and kept going, deciding not to chase the rabbit sign, and thus kept myself above ground, not falling into any holes, nor meeting any hookah-smoking caterpillars. But if books teach us anything, it’s that if a white rabbit appears once, it might return again. That was the case here, when I was in the area this past Friday and was drawn into the parking lot of White Rabbit Bar & Grill.
The building looks as if it has been there for years, while White Rabbit Bar & Grill itself feels rather new. Both are true: White Rabbit Bar & Grill opened right around the time of the onset of the last global pandemic, while the building has been standing for decades before that, most notably as home to The Edge of Town, from 1970 until well into the 21st century. A slight peek into the dining room confirmed one existed, but it was empty and I decided to stick to the barroom, taking a seat right inside the entrance, where I could overlook the half dozen high-top tables and the question mark shaped bar.
“Is the clam chowder in season?” I asked on the 84-degree fall day.
“Sure is!”
So I ordered a cup of it along with the seafood combo with potato pancakes.
White Rabbit Bar & Grill offers a number of Friday options: beer battered cod (two-piece for $12.95 or three-piece for $14.95), poor man’s lobster, with an 8 oz. steamed cod fillet ($14.95), breaded lake perch ($15.95), panko shrimp ($12.95), and the seafood combo, with two cod, two perch, and two shrimp ($19.95). Each comes with a side choice of french fries, potato pancakes, or cottage cheese, or can be upgraded to tater tots for $2, onion rings for $2, a side salad for $3.95, or cheese curds for $6.95. For those who are still hungry, add-ons are available: cod ($3), 8 oz. cod ($7), perch ($3), shrimp ($2), an order of potato pancakes ($3), sauces (50 cents), and coleslaw (50 cents). Clam chowder, which is seasonal, is available by the cup ($4.95) or bowl ($6.95).
You know what the chowder reminded me of? A pot pie! It was like what you’d think the inside of a clam chowder pot pie would be like, if there was such a thing. (Types search into computer…Curiouser and curiouser! There is such a thing!). This was in large part because of the chowder’s almost on-the-nose resemblance to pot pie gravy. Beyond that, the chowder was somewhat potato-heavy, with carrots and clams also in the mix; the seasoning was light, the end result being mellow, being comparable again to a pot pie.
The chowder had been brought to me right away, but that didn’t mean there was a long wait between the chowder and fish fry, and I was promptly on to the main course. Despite the bread having glugged down a heavy dose of Drink Me potion, the diminutive light rye was still noticeable, being soft and generously buttered. The deeper I got into the coleslaw, the sweeter it became, and it retained its crunchiness despite being saturated. But like the rye bread, it was a sideshow to the main attractions.
The circumference of the potato pancakes approximated the circumference of the Hatter’s top hat. Served on a separate plate that was set on the main plate, they were so thin that I had to investigate before confirming there were indeed two. Soft, yet crispy in parts, they were hashbrown-adjacent, with a large number of diced onions visible throughout—transclucent yet appearing to be red onions—and perhaps some pepper. I was given the choice of syrup, applesauce, or sour cream to ride sidecar, and chose the cream. If you are a devotee of mealy and floury pancakes, these aren’t for you, but if you like ones that are more like hashbrowns and are driven home with onions, step right up.
Every time I order a combo that includes shrimp, I look at them and eat them, and they look and taste exactly the same as they do everywhere else. I think to myself, “You’ve gotta find something astute to say about the shrimp, you culinary quack!” What can you say about something that is great everywhere you go? These big panko breaded shrimp are like waterparks and dive bars and symphony performances and macaroni & cheese. They are similarly great everywhere.
But there was a marked difference between the fish, between the cod and perch, between the batter and the breading. The batter on the cod was clean and crisp, not greasy, being fried to the sweet spot, and had a light beer flavor. The cod was also clean, and flaked moderately well. The breading on the large pieces of perch was grainy and held close to it, with an appealing, pleasant flavor. The flavor of the perch followed the same trajectory as the breading, being present and pleasant, but not overwhelmingly strong. The perch fillets were consistently meaty throughout, without any throwaway parts. The differences between the cod and perch, and the merits of each, highlight why trying both is worthwhile. The tartar sauce was reasonably typical. The dial was turned up a bit on the relish, if not in the amount included, at least in the overall effect it had on the flavor, but not to the point of being overbearing. It was thick, but not the kind that’s gloppy and falls off; rather, it was the kind that easily clings to the fish when eating it.
“Are you going to need a box or are you going to be able to do it?” my waitress asked, looking at my plate.
“I think I can do it,” I replied.
“I think you can do it too!” she said, as she patted me on the shoulder.
I remembered what the Dormouse said. “Feed your head, feed your head,” which I assume means “Finish all of the fish on your plate.” So I did.
When my waitress returned she was visibly proud and asked me if I wanted dessert. I said I didn’t think so, and she said, “Well, you did good with what you had,” and suggested that I could at least have a mint, and left me one.
White Rabbit Bar & Grill might not have a fish fry that you’ll call the best you’ve ever had, but they do have one worth trying if you find yourself driving around Ozaukee County or biking on the Ozaukee Interurban Trail. The perch and cod are both made with care and more than pleasing, and the potato pancakes resonate, too. The atmosphere is unassuming, the service is great, and the workers are friendly. So get to it. Follow the White Rabbit and see what you find.
Takeaways: Accessible from roads, bike trails, and possibly from rabbit holes; pot pie chowder; thin, oniony, and hashbrown-adjacent potato pancakes; crisp and clean beer batter on high-quality cod; appealing breading on consistently meaty perch; fish and more available à la carte; excellent, friendly service; desserts available for purchase, but give out mints for free.
Want more Caleb? Hire him for all your 100%-vinyl DJ needs and follow him on Patreon.
RELATED ARTICLES
• Enjoy Every Fish Fry main page
• Enjoy Every Fish Fry: Wisconsin fish fry reviews
• Enjoy Every Fish Fry: The best Milwaukee-area fish frys of 2024