People struggle with change, but we’re here to tell you that—as difficult as it can be to come to terms with sometimes—change is natural. Sometimes change is necessary. Believe it or not, change can actually be a good thing. Change can show growth, evolution, and an attempt to more accurately reflect one’s current state of being. And sometimes change occurs because you no longer wish to serve sausages, but the name of your business consists of a bratwurst-based pun.
Some combination of those factors recently led Heard Hospitality to change the name of one of its Brady Street businesses. Yes, on Saturday, February 21, WurstBar officially became Underground Tavern. The decision to modify the name of the business, which had been serving German-inspired pub fare at 1239 E. Brady Street since 2021, wasn’t made flippantly. It was done as the final and most notable step needed to rebrand and effectively relaunch the venture in a new and decidedly different direction.
After allowing a week or so to work out the kinks, Milwaukee Record paid a visit to the now-former WurstBar (a place we first visited and assessed in November 2021) this week to give Underground Tavern a try. The new concept, a self-described “no frills dive bar with prices lower than your standards” boasts an entirely overhauled menu, an attempted new decorative direction, and a noticeable shift in tone. But is this change for the better and, more importantly, does it have staying power?
As we first entered, the similarities between WurstBar of old and Underground Tavern are what struck us first. “The bones” are the pretty much the same, as the paint job, tiling, flooring, arrangement of tables, and pretty much everything else major are nearly identical to the last time we were in the building back in 2025.
Upon closer inspection, we took note of a few cosmetic adjustments that came with the conceptual shift. Namely, there are vintage beer signs, modern craft beer tin tackers, sports memorabilia, and other signage that gently implies a decision to become a “dive bar” (a distinction usually earned over time). There are also video poker machines and new red lighting to add a moodier motif after sundown. It’s subtle, but the effort isn’t lost on us.
Perhaps the most notable and best dive bar-themed component we experienced was the $4 pint of Lakefront East Side Dark we enjoyed as part of Underground’s happy hour special. From 11 a.m. until 5 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, all drinks (excluding top shelf liquor) are $4. On Wednesdays, that pretty damn good special extends until 2 a.m. “Real” dive bar or not, we’ll call you whatever you want as long as you keep the $4 drinks coming.
You might have noticed Underground Tavern is, well, above ground. The decision to employ subterranean nomenclature for this two-level Brady Street bar is reportedly an emphatic nod in the direction of the kitchen, which is located in the basement of the property. The food programming is unarguably the most significant change to the day-to-day operations, as well as the direct inspiration for the new name. Döner kebabs and the arsenal of Bunzel’s Meat Market sausages are gone. In their place is an accessible menagerie of sandwiches, sides, wings, and soup.
There are some unexpected sidesteps on the menu, most notably “The Philly,” which is a South Philadelphia-style cheesesteak ($15.95 including a side). Between the soft hoagie roll, the shaved ribeye, sauteed onions, and the unapologetically gooey sharp cheddar, this hefty handheld was well worth the price and the napkins. We bypassed such side options as cucumber salad, potato salad, and coleslaw in favor of fries. More specifically, we opted for the salt and vinegar fry variant, which was a huge piled of fries liberally coated in a dusting reminiscent of what you’d find on salt and vinegar potato chips. Interesting and initially enjoyable as the flavor option was, it became overpowering and cumbersome over time. We’re not discouraging you from getting them, but be warned! We’ll be getting potato salad next time.
At the end of the day, Underground Tavern isn’t really a far departure from WurstBar and that’s okay. The name has changed. Burgers and rib-sticking sandwiches have taken the place of sausages. The vaguely Germanic beer hall (projected through a Brady Street lens) now has some old beer signs nailed on top of it. The beer and spirits selection both get the job done. You can still watch a game and listen to an ever-changing TouchTunes playlist—the recent Garth Brooks to Papa Roach one-two punch was something to behold!—but you’ll be basked in red lights as you do so.
If you liked WurstBar, you’re probably still going to like Underground Tavern, and if you didn’t, maybe it’s worth giving the bar on 1239 E. Brady St. another shot to see if the many minor changes help render Underground Tavern something that’s more your speed. It’s not the WurstBar nor is it the worst bar on the iconic Milwaukee causeway.
