Since opening in late 2011, Braise (1101 S. 2nd St., 414-212-8843) has been an invaluable part of Milwaukee dining. The Walker’s Point restaurant was an early adopter of the “farm-to table” concept and years ahead of many of its gourmet contemporaries who are currently making waves in the Cream City culinary scene.
The endeavor owned by four-time James Beard Award semifinalist chef Dave Swanson and his wife Becky continues to earn acclaim from customers and critics alike. Additionally, Braise offers culinary classes, has aided in the development of countless now-notable chefs in the region, and offers untold support to a variety of local farms and other regional producers through sourcing their goods for its menu.
Honestly, Braise’s only downfall might be that it’s been so good for so long that it sometimes gets overshadowed by the steady stream of flashy new establishments joining the very same dining scene they helped to elevate.
Now, folks approximately a three-hour drive from Braise have an opportunity to experience some of the flavors Milwaukee has been enjoying for close to 15 years. In late 2023, the Swansons expanded the Braise footprint by opening a second location about 200 miles north of its flagship. In November 2023, Braise North (15398 WI-32, 715-624-4700) quietly launched in the small Oconto County town of Lakewood, Wisconsin—a place Becky has spent ample time with her family since she “was an infant”.
Like Becky, I’ve also been coming to Lakewood since I was an infant because I, too, have family there. However, my visits have grown far more seldom in recent years as my life has become far more demanding. When I learned that one of my absolute favorite restaurants in Milwaukee opened an affiliated cafe in the community my grandma still calls home, I knew I had to stop by the next time I visited. And I did just that a couple weeks ago.
In spring and summer months, Braise North is open on a reservation basis (or for walk-ins until 7:30 p.m. as space permits) on Fridays and Saturdays from 5-9 p.m., during which they serve an ever-changing and ingredient-dependent menu that ranges from paella and oven roasted salmon to Neapolitan wood fire pizza, chicken mole, and a wide variety of Epecurian indulgences they announce to prospective diners a few days ahead of time. Summer dinner service ends in mid-September.
Saturday and Sunday mornings year round from 8 a.m. to noon, Braise North strictly operates as a cafe. Much like its seasonal dinner service format, the cafe menu is always changing based on what’s available from partner farms (both in Oconto County and elsewhere in Wisconsin).
True to the restaurant’s Milwaukee roots, they try to highlight the city’s coffee and espresso, as well as regional cheeses, tea, hot sauces, and more.
Lakewood is far from a tourist hub, but knowing most people in town on weekends aren’t locals, Braise North also has something of a gift shop on-site that’s outfitted with apparel, wine, preserves, and other impulse buys for the visitor on the go.
Alternatively, they can order a beverage (wine, cocktails, coffee drinks, etc.) to enjoy in the cozy and classic dining room.
Or out on the quaint and comfy rear deck patio.
Just as its hours are limited, so are Braise North’s fall/winter offerings. Still, even the most ardently old school local or bougie out-of-towner can both surely find something to their liking on the continuously alternating collection of homemade morning pastries, the can’t-miss breakfast menu, and the small-yet-formidable catalog of coffee drinks (each of which can be accented with syrup flavoring options created in house). At least I know I loved my honey bourbon latte and mocha scone during my visit.
Sadly and kind of ironically, life in Milwaukee got in the way of me making it up to Lakewood in time to visit Braise’s second location during their dinner service, meaning I missed out on poke, arepas, jerk chicken, étouffée, and dozens of other enticing dinner specialties.
Regardless, I was overjoyed to have a Braise breakfast in the form of a smoked salmon everything bagel with fluffy whipped scallion cream cheese, a thick bed of microgreens, pickled onions, and capers. With all due respect to The Pour Haus fish fry I had the night before, it was the best fish dish I had in Lakewood all weekend.
Between its focus on local farms, its award-caliber culinary acumen, its distinct brand of accessible inventiveness, and its altogether incredible execution, both Milwaukeeans and non Milwaukee readers should be flocking to Braise proper more often. Similarly, Lakewoodeans (???) and people passing through the area should set their coordinates to Braise North, which ably brings hints of Milwaukee-forged dining excellence to a gorgeous Northwoods town with a population of under 800.
