In Wisconsin Taste Test, two Milwaukee Record folks share their thoughts on two new-to-them “Wisconsin-y” food or drink items. This week: Thanksgiving-themed food specials from Ian’s Pizza, Lakefront Brewery, and The Vanguard.
Thanksgiving is right around the corner. Though many places are closed on Turkey Day itself, grocery stores and liquor retailers have been ready for a sudden influx of customers picking up supplies for their holiday gatherings. Bars everywhere are getting ready for the revelry of “Blackout Wednesday.” Retailers are slashing their prices and stocking their shelves in preparation of Black Friday, Small Business Saturday, and Cyber Monday.
Meanwhile, restaurants looking to get into the holiday spirit (and, sure, also bring in some extra business before and after Turkey Day to at least somewhat account for being closed Thursday) are getting into the seasonal spirit by offering Thanksgiving-themed specials this month. Some Milwaukee restaurants are taking part in this as well, and are crafting inventive, indulgent, and gravy-covered riffs on the classic Thanksgiving feast. As we get ready for Thursday’s bounty, we stopped by three local establishments this week to partake in their Thanksgiving-themed specials.
Turducken Sausage (The Vanguard)
Tyler Maas: Last weekend, The Vanguard temporarily made room on its (just updated) menu for a new holiday-specific sausage special. For the unfamiliar, a “Turducken” is a turkey that has been stuffed with a duck that has been stuffed with a chicken. It’s admittedly kind of a morbid Thanksgiving novelty that tends to be more over-the-top than good. Thankfully, The Vanguard’s Turducken take ($14) is more straightforward and features far less avian corpse desecration. Rather than assembling a nesting dolls of bird bodies, they’ve blended turkey, duck, and chicken meat into a sausage link, then topped it with an array of Thanksgiving fix-ins. Before I get into my thoughts, I’ll throw it to Mitch DeSantis, who I invited to join me on this leg of the gastronomic turkey trot.
Mitch DeSantis: It’s a fun twist on a full Thanksgiving meal, and just like most Thanksgiving meals I’ve had over the course of my lifetime, the poultry with diva-level star power tends to be the least enjoyable thing on my place mat. Don’t get me wrong—turkey is good, and this sausage is great! It’s just that the sides at dinner—and with this sausage—are always what tickle my taste buds the most. The gravy was the frontline charge, storming in bravely while crunchy onion bits exploded like delicious shrapnel. The stuffing didn’t fully register until halfway through, but once it did, it was a joy, and the cranberry sauce tied the whole thing together like a perfect bow. I’ve always been a sucker for cranberry sauce mixed with something fatty, be it mayo or, in this case, gravy.
Tyler: I second your thoughts about the sausage itself, ironically, being the least compelling aspect of the Turducken. Though it’s a go-to in lunch meat form, ground turkey has a tendency to drag down almost any other dish it’s part of. They ground turkey isn’t contributing anything positive to the group project that is this three-meat sausage, but it still gets top billing. Life isn’t fair. However, as Mitch noted, the side dish-sourced toppings help make this banger into, well, a banger. The rich gravy was my top performer and its savoriness was offset masterfully by the cranberry sauce. The toasted bun and fried onion sprinkling were nice touches as well. Oh, and the sage made me wonder if every herb is better when deep fried. Sure, this is a seasonal amenity (that’ll be available through this weekend, while supplies last), but I wouldn’t hate if they offered this special in non-Thanksgiving times as well. Think about it, Vanguard!
Mitch: The sausage also knocked loose a sense of nostalgia. It reminded me of my family’s Thanksgiving tradition of saying what we’re thankful for before diving into the meal. And this year, I genuinely have a lot: more time for hobbies, a return to writing, biking, drawing, video editing—all the things I loved in my youth, but had shelved for a decade of career-chasing. My wife and I even moved back to a neighborhood I cherish, the kind of place where spots like Vanguard dream up creations like this. If a single sausage can spark gratitude and memory in equal measure, well…that’s something to be thankful for, too.
Tyler rating: An emphatic “Yeah, sure!” (Pretty good to good.)
Mitch rating: A soft “Oh yah!” (Good.)
Thanksgiving Pizza (Ian’s Pizza)
Tyler: I left Mitch behind so he could get back for Thanksgiving, then I headed to North Ave. to experience a “limited feature slice” at Ian’s Pizza. Apparently Thanksgiving Pizza has been available at Ian’s in the general vicinity of the fall holiday for a number of years, but I’ve never tried it. Until now, that is.
I walked into the pizzeria post-lunch rush, ordered a slice ($5.50), and took a seat. After spending a few minutes heating up in an Ian’s oven, the massive and fully-loaded slice was in my possession. To be honest, I—having been let down by countless unconventional pizza creations over the years—had low expectations of this one. I’m happy to report that I was dead wrong.
The massive slice was liberally lined with a decadent smattering of toppings that combined to forge something wonderful. A creamy base (reminiscent of the mushroom soup in green bean casserole) was topped with globs of mushy seasoned stuffing, sauteed fresh mushrooms, a mess of crispy fried onions, and a coarse cranberry sauce that vied for taste bud domination with the melted mozzarella cheese. The unsung hero of this slice was the green beans, which much to my utter amazement, were fresh instead of canned and still had a snap to them. I guess there’s a reason Thanksgiving Pizza is an annual thing at Ian’s (and will be in both slice and full-pie mode through December 1).
Tyler rating: “Oh yah!” (Good.)
Thanksgiving Cheese Curds (Lakefront Brewery)
Tyler: I can’t truly give a review of this last item on account of Lakefront Brewery running ads with us at the moment (NO “PAY-TO-PLAY HERE!), but when Milwaukee’s largest craft brewery dubs Thanksgiving Cheese Curds its “Curd Of The Month,” you know I’m trying those curds. So consider this one a bonus.
Beyond offering award-winning, wrestler-approved curds daily (except Fridays, when they allocate fryer space to fish), Lakefront’s Beer Hall goes wild with a different specialty curd rendition each month. March was Cherry Pie, followed by General Tso’s in May, Taco in September, and so forth. For all of November (again, excluding Fridays), Lakefront’s specialty curd has been “Thanksgiving”—fried curds that taste as if they were battered and dredged in a stuffing spice-inspired seasoning, then topped with a deluge of gravy and accompanied with a side of cranberry dipping sauce.
The curds themselves are nothing short of tremendous, as gigantic hunks of Clock Shadow Creamery white cheddar curds are crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. The extra herbs in the batter are a nice nod to the holiday as well. The gravy is unabashedly packed with umami, which is great in moderation, but it can overtake some bites and makes for a messy eating experience. Over time, the experience can get too salty, making the cranberry sauce and recommended beer pairing (Riverwest Stein) more of a necessity than a complement.
I’m far more inclined to enjoy their standard everyday curds before ordering these again. Still, if you’re curious and you can make it to Lakefront today, Saturday or Sunday, you should absolutely give them a shot. But I highly recommend not attempting to tackle a whole order alone. I learned that lesson the hard way.
Tyler rating: “Yeah, sure.” (Okay.)
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